Day 30 (Bangkok and Chiang Mai)

Bangkok has provided me with the first real culture shock of my journey. I was more or less mentally prepared for the challenges Dubai, Vietnam and Cambodia would throw my way (having read up on the destinations carefully in advance), but arriving straight on Khao San road in Thailand, I had no idea of what to expect. 

The Thais are a wonderfully friendly and welcoming (although also incredibly proud and fiercely tempered) people as a whole, and after about 11 days here I am really loving the place, the people and the endless possibilities this country has to offer. However, the Thais in the tourist mecca madness that is Khao San have a very different mentality, and you instantly get the feeling that the endless throng of rowdy tourists has had a severely detrimental influence in this area on the otherwise legendary Thai hospitality. But once you've figured out that 9 out of 10 people are either lying to you or trying to scam their way into your pockets, you quickly learn to navigate it and can sit back and enjoy the ride. One thing is for certain though - Thailand is nothing like either Vietnam or Cambodia, and the magnitude of the cultural differences has been a surprise. 

After staying in a couple of different hotels and hostels to check out various parts of the city, Bangkok has really opened up and revealed why so many people love coming here. Once you get outside of the tourist zone (which, admittedly, really is a lot of fun for a while!), the locals are wonderful, the sights are amazing and the atmosphere extraordinary. I have made it a point to make sure to get lost in strange places as often as possible, which has led to many late nights in the cheerful company of lovely people I would normally never meet.

Some of my favorite moments have been bicycling through the backstreets of the city at night, going out in various parts of the city, meeting the professional muay thai fighters at legendary Lumpinee Boxing Stadium, the city parks in early morning and late evening, massive local and international marketplaces, the Grand Palace murals, the Temple of the Dawn, Wat Pho, Chinatown and simply taking in the atmosphere of small backalley bars as well as participating in the great Khao San party circus (yes, including the comical ping pong freakshows...).

PICTURES (BANGKOK): https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152135143657262.1073741834.649632261&type=1&l=fb88c4e077

A long and arduous bus ride from Bangkok behind me, I am currently in Chiang Mai. This place is far removed from the bustling metropolis to the south, and it is an extaradinary, endless amusement park for anyone who enjoys outdoor activities of any kind. So far I have ziplined and absailed through the rainforest, played with tiger cubs (unbelievably fun!), gotten thoroughly lost and made unusual friends. This place can be pricy compared to other parts of the region, but to say that the experiences are worth every 'baht' would be a gross understatement! I cannot recommend this place enough. Tomorrow and the coming days I head for the elephant conservation center to begin my training as an elephant 'mahout', and then onward to trekking the mountains! I am excited! :D

PICTURES (CHIANG MAI): https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152135168947262.1073741835.649632261&type=1&l=8bed0a829d


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Update: Before I had a chance to upload this, I had to get on the bus to Lampang and the Thai Elephant Conservation Center. I have now just returned to Chiang Mai, and am still completely blown away, humbled and honored by the experience. 
Rarely in my life have I taken part in anything as rewarding and awe inspiring as riding one of these deceptively powerful, majestic creatures bareback in the pouring rain through deep rivers and up impossible inclines into the mountains surrounded by some of the most incredible scenery I could imagine. 

Feeding, bathing, training, performing with, waking up, riding and caring for 'my own' elephant (a lovely 16-year old, 3.5 ton girl named Wannalee) for hours upon hours for 3 days among elephant mahouts and their families who have dedicated their entire lives to their respective elephants has been an absolute privilege that I will never ever forget. 

Needless to say, I am enjoying myself! :D   


Pictures will never do this experience justice, but I will try to upload some regardless!

PICTURES (ELEPHANT CONSERVATION CENTER): https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152135197947262.1073741836.649632261&type=1&l=5479655d35


Tomorrow's mission: rock climbing at Crazy Horse Buttress! :D
  

Day 20 (Mekong and Cambodia)

As I begin this entry I am sitting on a crowded bus leaving Siem Reap for the Poipet border crossing into Thailand, and eventually Bangkok. 

Since my last update I have ended my visit to southern Vietnam with a wonderful stay in the rural Mekong Delta. My route took me through My Tho, Ben Tre, Can Tho and Chau Doc with various stops along the way, visiting floating markets, coconut candy manufacturers, rice mills, noodle makers, small villages and a lot of sailing on the Mekong River. The area is nothing like either urban Saigon or blissful Mui Ne, and offers a small piece of intriguing insight into Vietnamese life in the countryside. From there, a 7 hour boat&bus-trip took me by a series of roads never meant for motorized vehicles to the border and into Cambodia. 

PICTURES: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152124678542262.1073741831.649632261&type=1&l=dfd44583ab

My time in Cambodia has been relatively short, but the days I have spent in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap have been extraordinary, and the Cambodians have left a lasting impression that guarantees I'll eventually be back. Despite being a country ravaged by countless atrocities and genocide only decades ago, the people are disarmingly warm and welcoming and never fail to greet you with a smile or offer a helping hand - I have made many friends here, travelers and locals alike. 

Time flies by faster than I could have ever imagined, and I am already having a hard time telling the days apart - awesome experiences here are too numerous to properly recount, but some highlights include: 
- Visiting the Buddhist monks of the temples in Phnom Penh.
- Getting caught up in the middle of violent clashes between police and national election protesters (a man was shot dead by police 500 meters from my hotel).
- Enjoying the amazing Khmer cuisine and ridiculously inexpensive local beverages.
- The stunning temples of Angkor outside Siem Reap.
- Shopping with the locals, filling a tuk tuk with groceries and donating it to a local orphanage, hanging out with the absolutely adorable children.
- Quad bike racing through small villages around the killing fields and visiting Tuol Sleng.
- Partying on Pub Street and backpacker bars, local bars, early morning bars, rooftop bars and rather questionable bars in every location.
- Watching the brutal sport of Khmer boxing (10 fights - 6 knockouts, 2 disqualifications!).
- Experiencing a culture and daily life that is so different that walking down the street or venturing into traffic is an adventure in itself (only very few times have I genuinely feared for my life... :) ).

PICTURES:

Acodo Orphanage: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152111057322262&type=1&l=470e29ae1a

Cambodia: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152124693797262.1073741832.649632261&type=1&l=dc0d9b5b5d 


Next up is Bangkok! :D

Day 11

I am sitting in the small, cozy lobby of Phan Anh Backpacker Hostel in the Pham Ngu Lao area of bustling, colorful Saigon. The rain is pouring down outside, and will probably continue for another hour of so before being replaced by the distinct smell and uncharacteristic quiet that briefly follows every rainfall, as the city gets back into gear. I have just returned from Mui Ne, and have only 3 days left in Vietnam before continuing my journey towards Cambodia.

I have kept pretty busy ever since leaving Dubai, and the warmth, charm and hospitality of the Vietnamese people have already won me over. I see now that my time here is way too short, and I will most definitely return in the future!

So far I have explored the massive beast that is Ho Chi Minh City with my wonderful Vietnamese colleague as a guide, and in contrast to what many travellers experience here, I really love the atmosphere of the city. I have taken advantage of the fantastic (ridiculously cheap) massage spas that crowd the backpacker area, I have witnessed the absolute horror of decades of war from the Vietnamese perspective at the War Remnants Museum, I have crawled underground in hiding from American bombardment in the Cu Chi Tunnel system, I have partied at rooftop bars at the 2 tallest buildings in the city and had 3 DKK Saigon beers at charismatic outdoor bars until the early hours of morning.

Vietnamese cuisine is absolutely amazing. I have already consumed a truly exotic array of dishes during my short stay here - some incredibly good, some incredibly gross :D Roasted chicken feet, grilled octopus, boiled squid, manta ray, neon colored sticky rice, pigfeet, duck liver, frogs, duriem (the Vietnamese version of surstromming!), and a great deal of things I have no idea what was - most of it so hot that it will have you sweating as if you've been running a marathon. A cooking class with a Vietnamese TV cook has even taught me the fine art of cooking an excellent Bun Bo Hue :)

Mui Ne and Phan Tiet along the coast are small slices of paradise, and a couple of days in pure beach resort luxury away from busy Saigon have been extraordinary. I have been eating in the middle of the night at 24 hour local restaurants, visiting street markets, swapping stories with rugged Australian beach bar owners, partying with a throng of Kazaksthanis, visiting the local sand dunes, swimming in the clear ocean, bike riding up the coast, meeting the friendly locals and taking 4 AM motorbike rides in the pouring rain. 

The next part of my journey brings me into the heart of the rural Mekong Delta... I am excited! :D

(To ease the process of keeping this updated, I will be using Facebook's public photo album service for pictures from now on. You dont need an account to view the pictures, just click on the link!)

Pictures: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152094093922262.1073741827.649632261&type=1&l=292253bceb

Day 6

Suddenly, I find myself back on a plane. This morning is a complete blur - I can hardly remember how I got to the airport, whether I had breakfast or if I forgot anything at the hotel. I'm heading for Saigon, Vietnam, and have the plane pretty much to myself. I have slept for 3 hours and have a pretty solid hangover. I am beginning to feel a bit like a backpacker...

The last few days have gone by all too fast, but Dubai has given me some unexpectedly powerful and memorable experiences in a very short time. It's safe to say I will never forget this leg of my journey. Sailing on the creek, dune bashing, observing the inherent paradoxes of Emirati society, sleeping in the vast desert under the night sky and spending time with incredible people are highlights of my all too short visit.

Public pictures link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152094056052262.1073741826.649632261&type=1&l=7ba35f8b0e

 

Day 2

Arrival around 1 am without incident. Emirates Airlines surprised me - despite being fairly cheap, service was professional and everything from inflight entertainment to food was good quality. They are not too worried about terrorist takeovers, as dinner is served with sharp steel cutlery :D

Dubai is HOT! Even in the middle of the night it's 37 degrees. Luggage retrieved, my hotel is just 10 minutes away. A quick beer at the hotel bar before bedtime. As I chilll at the bar, I slowly begin to realize why this hotel was so cheap. It seems management here encourages the availability of certain 'extra services' for hotel patrons. The no less than 3 house night clubs are practically crawling with Philippino and African prostitutes - I'm basically sleeping in a brothel. Oh well.. I finish my beer and leg it out of there asap, but not before the Ugandan ladies have described in explicit detail what an African massage entails :D

I wake up early for a mandatory tour of the city. I manage to get lost in downtown Dubai and disappear from my guide. After a 30 minute jog around the souqs in 41 degree heat, I get back on track. Visits to the museum, the creek, Burj Khalifa and al Arab, the Palm, Jumeirah Mosque, the beach. There's a lot to see, and the (sometimes borderline ridicules) mixture of Arab and Western culture is intriguing.

Day 1

Today is the day! :D I am slowly beginning to realize what I've gotten myself into. I am absolutely beyond excited, and literally cannot wait to get on the plane! 41 degrees and desert await tonight - beyond that, well, adventure!